Meet Sally, My Hairstylist
Sally, Hair Designer & Educator
One of the most frequent questions I get: what do you do for your hair color? Truthfully, I trust my stylist SO much that I often tell her to do what she thinks will be best for my lifestyle—i.e., a low-maintenance color that will grow out naturally and beautifully.
With that said, I thought it would be helpful to ask my stylist herself and report all the answers back to you.
Everyone, meet Sally, my friend and hairstylist.
To give a brief background, Sally works at Neroli Salon & Spa on the East Side of Milwaukee. As a former member of the HR team for Neroli, I worked closely with Sally as she is one of the top hair trainers for the hair team at Neroli. Sally is truly an artist (check out her Instagram). Her skillset is constantly refined by her study and appreciation for hair color. I observed many new stylists look up to her.
I know that communicating your vision across to a stylist can be a challenge, so I hope that Sally’s expertise in this Q+A helps!
What tips do you have for low maintenance highlights that will last longer?
Low maintenance typically means blending your root seamlessly into the highlight. This prevents a line of outgrowth, so you won't need the highlights maintained as often. The closer your highlights are to your natural color at the root, the easier grow out will be.
How do you create such natural sun-kissed looking highlights?
Secrets! There are actually tons of techniques. One of my favorite ways is to paint lightener directly onto the hair and let it process in open air- without the use of foil. If your hair is light enough naturally, this can give you that dimensional sun-kissed look with an effortless grow out process.
What type of color technique do you use on Megan’s hair?
I choose a technique based on the season and what her hair looks like at the beginning of the service. Most recently, we've used two different formulas in a foil highlight, one formula near her roots, and another one mid lengths to ends. In the summer I switch to something different, since her hair has more sun exposure that time of year.
Can you tell us what formula you use for Megan’s hair color?
Formulas look like weird math equations to non-colorist folks and change drastically for every different head of hair and color line, so I will paraphrase! In the foils at the roots, we use hair color three shades lighter than Megan's natural color, with a bit of blue to cancel out the naturally occurring orange in her hair as it lightens. The formula on her mid lengths to ends is a very gentle powder lightener that processes for 45 minutes. We then gloss over it with a clear coat for that glittery shine.
Is there a special way to do highlights that can make them less obvious as they grow out?
Highlights can be placed in a variety of densities and patterns, and sometimes we will use what's called a "Shadow root" to create depth and an easier grow out. This is a semi-permanent color we put on at the shampoo bowl that matches closely with your natural and blurs out the visible foil pattern. Another way we create this effect is by teasing or back combing the section of hair at the root before highlighting. There's no "right way", you just have to trust the process and your colorist!!
What are your favorite go-to hair products?
For Megan's hair type, Aveda's Phomollient foam is a tried and true classic for volume and shine without stickiness. Another one of my obsessions for already dried hair is Sand Castle dry texture creme by R+ Co. I'm also a huge hair oil fan, my favorite lately is Aveda's Nutriplenish multi-use oil.
What is the best way to achieve loose messy waves? You know, the intentionally “unintentional” hair.
The most important thing is to prep the hair with a healthy dose of texture products (mousse, dry texture spray, etc.) so the hair is pliable but not too slippery or clean looking. Then you can wrap the hair in large sections around a 1.25" iron, holding onto the ends and waiting until the surface of the hair is warm, start with a 5 second count. Once you've done this to your whole head and the waves are cool you can give it a vigorous shake without it going flat.
What products or routine would you recommend for hair that’s been damaged due to coloring?
This is where natural products become really important. Shampoo three times a week or less with a protein shampoo. Invest in a deep conditioner (the Davines NouNou line is fantastic). Lastly, NEVER let the hair go out unprotected — Aveda Damage Remedy Daily Hair Repair leave in is an absolute savior.
What is the best blow dryer for a quick dry that doesn’t fry your hair?
I always recommend the Babyliss Portofino or Sedu Revolution for at home. Both are on the smaller side and are very long lasting.
What’s the best way to frame a face without cutting a lot of layers?
Layers get a bad reputation, but just like the word highlights, it can mean a hundred things. Especially if your hair is long, the visual weight of it can really drag down your look. Many faces benefit from face framing layers, it's just a matter of customizing them for your specific face shape, hair type, length and lifestyle. It's our job as hairstylists to make those choices, let us worry about it for you! If your hair is feeling lifeless but you aren't ready to get a fresh shape cut into it, simply moving your part around and styling with more volume and texture can make a big difference.